I think that loose leash walking, or “stop pulling” may be one of the most frequently requested goals I have from clients.  Dogs pull on leash for sooo many reasons.  Some examples are: to access to an object to sniff it, to access to people or other dogs, in an attempt to chase something like a squirrel or car, or perhaps just because they would like to walk at a faster pace (4 legs is really an advantage over 2!) .  Understanding the “why” is definitely key to getting this behavior to happen in the way that you want.  A dog could pull for all of these reasons and more on a single given walk. 

But I’m not going to talk about solving pulling today.  Instead I’m going to talk about building a walking behavior that you like.  Before you can accomplish your walking goals, you absolutely have to know what you want it to look like. You need to define the behavior, decide on your criteria and cues, and have a plan for reinforcement.  What will the structure of walking be for you and your dog?  

I’ve chosen to teach my dogs several kinds of walking, because we walk in many different environments.  For each environment, I have different behaviors in mind that will result in reinforcement for my dogs.  My types of walks are:  heeling, downtown/in public buildings leash walks (with me), neighborhood sniffy leash walks (sniffy walk), and hiking.  For each, I have chosen to use a different equipment set-up to help my dog differentiate. This becomes part of the cue for which walk we are doing. I’m going to break down each one so you can see examples for planning your own walking goals.  

Heeling:

• Critiera –  What you would want in competition obedience.  I would like my dogs’ foot to line up with my foot.  I would like my dog to look at me and match my pace and path.
• Environments – Any open space, inside the house, backyard, park, training building, etc.
• Cues – 4-6 foot leash attached to the collar, a verbal “heel”, and my arm in an L shape.
• Reinforcement – Food, play, praise/petting and sniffing time.  
• Duration of walking – Short, small doses.  Never more than a couple of minutes at a time.
• Purpose – Competition, feels like a formal training session.  Heeling should really be treated like a trick that you and your dog are performing together as a mutually engaging activity.

With Me:

• Criteria – For my dog to stay within a foot or so of my side and to move on quickly from things in the environment such as smells or people with a “let’s go” cue.  I often ask for a sit + wait during this type of walk to let people pass us closely.
• Environments – Downtown areas, inside pet-friendly stores, on busier streets.
• Cues – A 4-6 foot leash attached to the front clip of my dog’s harness.  A verbal cue “with me”.  
• Reinforcement – Food, sniffing, verbal praise/petting, opportunity to greet people.  
• Duration of walking – 10-15 minutes at the most.  Often just a few minutes at a time.  
• Purpose – To safely and politely navigate a busier 

Sniffy Walks:

• Criteria – If you (dog) want to stop and sniff, we do.  If I want to stop and look, we do.  If a walker, biker or car needs to pass us we will move to the side.  I ask for a sit+wait, do a treat scatter, or let him sniff something while the person passes. All offered check-ins, where he looks at me or comes to my side, will be reinforced.
• Environments – Neighborhood streets, quieter roads, park paths, open fields
• Cues – 6-12 foot leash attached to the back clip of my dog’s harness.  No formal verbal cue but I’m sure I use the phrase “sniffy walk” often before we start.  
• Reinforcement – Food, sniffing, verbal praise/petting, (rarely) greeting a person.
• Duration of walking – Longer walks, 30-90 minutes usually.
• Purpose – For me and my dog to get out into the world, see things, hear things, smell things, enjoy each other’s company and get a little mild exercise.  

Hiking:

• Criteria – If you (dog) want to stop and sniff, you may, I will keep walking and if you are still sniffing when I get to the end of the lead, I will stop and wait until you run to catch up.  The reverse is also true:  If I want to stop and look at something, you (dog) may keep going but if you get to the end of the leash before I’m ready to move on, you will pause and wait until I start walking again.  I usually say “wait” before I stop.  If a walker, biker or car needs to pass us we will move to the side.  We do a sit+wait as people pass.  Occasionally I may cue a “let’s go” to move on from something gross or potentially harmful.  All offered check-ins, where he looks at me or comes to my side, will be reinforced.   
• Environments – Hiking trails, open fields, quiet country roads
• Cues – 15-20 foot long line attached to the back clip of my dog’s harness.  No verbal cue.
• Reinforcement – Treats, verbal praise/petting, sniffing.
• Duration – Longer walks, an hour or two usually.  
• Purpose – For me and my dog to get out into the world, see things, hear things, smell things, enjoy each other’s company and get a some exercise and decompression.

What types of walking are useful in your life? What does each type of walk look like? How will you help your dog to understand your criteria?

Some other great resources regarding walking with your dog:

Deb Jones: Focus is Focus and Walks are Walks (Blog Post)

Kiki Yablon: To Teach Loose Leash Walking, Loosen the Leash (Blog Post)

Hannah Brannigan, Drinking from the Toilet: Loose Leash Walking Part 1 (Podcast), and Loose Leash Walking Part 2 (Podcast)