Sammy’s Big Milestone

This weekend was a big milestone for Sammy. It has been 1 year since the weekend we thought she wouldn’t make it.

Last year, on Thanksgiving weekend, Sammy had a terrible episode of Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome.

It looked like she had had a stroke. She jumped up, panicked and ran around the room, then stumbled over and would not get up again.

Of course, it was a Sunday evening so we had to decide; take her to the emergency vet or try to get through the night. She didn’t seem to be in pain but rather just confused.

So, we waited and took her in to her regular vet first thing Monday. They said she either had a stroke  or brain tumor OR Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome. We could either assume it was a stroke/brain tumor and there was really not much we could do. Or we could wait to see if it was Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome. If it was, she would recover on her own.

She had all of the symptoms of Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome –

  • Couldn’t stand up
  • Had her head tilted at almost 180 degrees to the side
  • Her eyes racing back and forth (this is called nystagmus)
  • Was vomiting and had diarrhea
  • Then she wouldn’t eat

That was the big one – that she wouldn’t eat. She is a lean dog and I was very worried she would quickly lose the strength to heal.

But she was drinking lots of water, if you held it for her. And she didn’t seem to be in pain.

So we decided to wait and see how she would do. We took her home. We put her on a slew of medications, including probiotics, antibiotics, anti-nausea, two different pain medicines, herbal supplements to boost her digestive system, and later added an anti-acid because she still wasn’t eating.

She didn’t eat anything for a week. Not even a tiny taste of peanut butter. We tried everything. But she did continue to drink water. We had to carry her from her bed to the grass and back for potty breaks and I had to use a harness to help her stand up long enough to go potty.

We were starting to wonder if we had made the right decision or if she was going through something terrible that she didn’t need to. We had to go out of town for the weekend and contemplated skipping the trip. But then she ate a spoonful of peanut butter. Our dear friends took care of her for the weekend and she ate an entire jar of peanut butter. They hand fed her one bite of peanut butter at a time, probably constantly, all weekend!

By the time we got back she could sort of get up on her own and even walk a little bit. She fell over a lot though. She still had an extreme head tilt and her eyes were still racing a little bit. But she could sort of track toys and they would stop racing sometimes.

Sammy at the beginning of her battle with Vestibular Syndrome

Sammy at the beginning of her battle with Vestibular Syndrome

Sammy after about 3 weeks of Vestibular Syndrome - She wants to play!

Sammy after about 3 weeks of Vestibular Syndrome – She wants to play!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

She gradually got stronger and we changed her diet from peanut butter to ground beef and rice or baby food. She did 3 rounds of acupuncture, 1 week a part (The results of this were amazing to me – she could move so much better afterwards, was so relaxed during it, and seemed to just smile after). By Christmas, she could get outside all by herself and would get up to come over for some attention sometimes even if she didn’t need a potty break. She was wagging her tail again.

She spent Christmas with my amazing in-laws. They cooked ground beef and rice for her three times a day and she started gaining back a little weight. By the end of her week-long stay with them, she would eat a little dog food mixed in.

But she still had quite the head tilt. We didn’t care. It didn’t bother her and we were just glad she was recovering so well.

Sammy at Christmas

Sammy before Christmas (Dec 15)

Sammy After Christmas (Jan 3)

Sammy After Christmas (Jan 3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We did a final round of acupuncture and I began taking her for walks again every day. We started with flat routes and slowly worked in hills. We practiced her sits, downs, shake, and back up – trying to help her regain her strength and balance as much as possible.

By late spring, her head tilt was almost gone, but then her anxiety began. That is a whole other blog post but I truly believe it began because of her experience with vestibular syndrome.

Sam in May with a small head tilt

Sam in May with a small head tilt

Over the last 6 or 8 months she has continued to improve. We have her anxiety under control (mostly). She can play fetch and pretty much keep up with Dan. She can go on long walks again. She is a happy and pretty much healthy dog (for almost 15!).

We are so thankful and feel so lucky that our vet encouraged us to give Sammy a chance to recover. When we began to read about this syndrome online, we read a heartbreaking number or posts from people who thought their dog had a stroke and later realized it was probably just vestibular syndrome. But it was too late. They had already put their dog down, thinking they were in pain with no chance of recovery.

This post is long overdue, but I feel that every dog owner should be aware of vestibular syndrome. Know that is looks so scary, and it is a lot of work, but even a 14 year old dog can recover and return to a normal, happy life.

photo

Sammy on Thanksgiving this year – ready to play with lots to be thankful for!

If you would like more information about Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome, we found the article from “The Bark” to be most helpful:

http://www.thebark.com/content/idiopathic-or-old-dog-vestibular-disease

Book Review – Chaser

Chaser: Unlocking the Genius of the Dog Who Knows a Thousand Words; By John W. Pilley with Hilary Hinzmann

Chaser book cover

I finally got a copy of this book from the library and it was definitely worth the wait.  With a wonderful mix of storytelling and science, it was difficult to put down!

If you haven’t heard of Chaser the border collie, you should definitely watch a few videos of her.  Here are some links:

A quick one from ABC: http://youtu.be/_6479QAJuz8

Another short video from Today : http://youtu.be/Hi8HFdPMsiM

The Nova Science Now special:  http://youtu.be/mTTuiE1_Oe8

And another demonstrating Chaser’s understanding of two-word combinations: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbI13nbDRRI&feature=share&list=UU2NjUImk-ITC_LhgsNvvADg&index=1

Chaser tells the story of how John Pilley raised Chaser, developed their relationship, and carried out her training.  Pilley was a professor of psychology and so he knew a great deal about human and animal learning and this gave him a great start for working with Chaser.  Just before he got Chaser as a little puppy, Rico the border collie was getting lots of media attention for knowing over 200 words. However, several things were pointed out about Rico’s skills – for example Rico only fetched objects, he didn’t do anything else with them.  Pilley researched all of the ways to improve upon the training done with Rico and came up with his own goals for Chaser.

  • His first goal was to try to surpass Rico’s 200 words – which he definitely accomplished by teaching Chaser over 1000!
  • His second goal was to show that Chaser definitely was not getting any clues from him about which toys to get.  He did this by putting the toys in another room, behind the couch, behind a screen, etc.
  • His third goal was to teach Chaser to interact with the toys in more than one way.  He taught her herding commands (Come by, away to me, walk up, drop) in addition to “take”, “paw”, and “nose” so that he could use these words in combination with the object name.
  • He also wanted to see how fast Chaser could learn an object name and whether she could learn by exclusion.  When she was just 6 months old, she could learn an object by hearing it named only once.  Pilley would say “ Chaser this is _____” and then she could find that object amongst others by name.  Soon after, he tested her ability to learn a new object name by exclusion and found that she passed with flying colors!
  • Pilley also taught Chaser the names of categories like “ball” and “Frisbee”.  She learned that each ball had it’s own name for that specific ball, but that the word “ball” meant any of the balls.

The rest of the book focuses on their experience with writing the publications and getting them accepted in a peer reviewed journal (they were first published in Behavioral Processes), how they “went viral” after the paper was published online, and how they were included in a Nova Science Now episode on the intelligence of animals.  They also made a trip to New York to help promote the show, did demonstrations at the college, and presented at the American Psychological Association’s conference in Washington D.C.  He wraps up with some of the future training he hopes to do with Chaser and what they are currently working on.

Beyond Chaser’s amazing abilities, here are the things I was most impressed by in this book:

  • Pilley spends 4-5 hours per day training Chaser!  This is a great mark for anyone working with his or her dog.  Training takes time, consistency, and patience!
  • Pilley spends 4-5 hours per day training Chaser!  When people say a border collie (or other working dog) needs a job, this is what they mean!
  • All of Chaser’s training is presented as play.  All of the learning is one big game for her and treats are rarely used.  For Chaser, playing with toys is so much more fun!
  • The Pilley family always put Chaser’s needs first – they didn’t fly her anywhere when she became famous and they were very careful about how much she was taken on TV.  That environment can be stressful for a dog who is not used to it (or probably even for dogs who are!).  They were always very careful to keep her routine as much as possible even through the traveling – right down to playing Frisbee in the hotel hallway!

I really encourage you to read this one.  The explanations of the training sessions are very clear – maybe you’ll decide to give it a shot with your own dog!

Dan in the Deschutes River as a Puppy

Dan Turns 2!

Dan Turns 2!

Most of my clients have heard me say that every dog is different and even though there are many tried and true techniques for training a dog or changing a behavior, we have to adapt them to the individual.  This can be a challenge when working with certain dogs, but it also means that we learn something new from every dog we work with.  And we learn even more from each dog we have the privilege of owning.

Today is Dan’s 2nd birthday and in light of the occasion, I wanted to share some of the challenges we have worked through together and some of the things Dan has taught me as a trainer and as a pet owner.

Dan in the Deschutes River as a Puppy

The first few months of owning Dan were pretty rough.  Don’t get me wrong – he was a super cute, hilarious little puppy and we had lots of fun too.  He is so smart and watching him work through problems is probably one of my favorite things to do.  But he was a difficult puppy to raise and we were in a difficult environment.

Dan has always been very reactive to new things and living in a downtown apartment as a puppy and adolescent did not help this behavior.  When he was just 5 months old, he would bark at everything – people, squirrels, dogs, motorcycles; anything new or different looking.  We work hard with him every day, with every experience he has, and it is slowly paying off. (I won’t lie, moving into a house with his own yard has helped tremendously!)

Here are some of the major things Dan has accomplished over the last year:

  • When someone comes to the door, he now goes to his bed and lies down.  We allow him to bark until we tell him to stop.  He can stay while people walk in the door and he is a little calmer when he greets them.
  • He can quietly watch people walk past our house, as long as they do not have a dog with them.
  • He can walk nicely on a loose leash with no distractions.
  • He can walk nicely on a loose leash when going out the front door and hanging out in our front yard.  He can even walk a few houses down the sidewalk without pulling or sniffing.
  • He is happy to lounge with us when we are relaxing; he can recognize playtime vs. lounge time.
  • He will not bark at the neighbor dog through the fence when reminded to “leave it”, even if the other dog is barking at him.
  • We got through an entire vet visit without any barking or growling at noise of other dogs.
  • He has made four new doggie friends – two of which came to his house!
  • He has learned lots of tricks and is much more focused on me in general – training time or otherwise.
Dan and Sam made friends with Bandit and Mojo

Dan and Sam made friends with Bandit and Mojo

 

Another New Friend - Lobita

Another New Friend – Lobita

All of these things are fairly common expectations for a pet dog, but they have been very challenging to teach Dan to do.  He would much rather be impulsive, yank on a leash, bark at everything, and run around like a crazy man.

I feel very lucky to have Dan as our dog, and he amazes us every day.  He has taught me so much about changing your expectations and goals to fit the dog you have.  Here are some of the things I have gotten better at through working with Dan:

  • Timing of my reward delivery – he has no patience for late treats!
  • Choosing a reward to promote the type of behavior you are working towards.  For example, using tug as a reward when you are working on calm behavior is not ideal for Dan.
  • Being attentive of the environment to predict problematic stimuli and train appropriately.
  • Observing and recognizing precursor behaviors to aggression, reactivity, and fear.
  • Being patient in training.
  • Understanding reactivity and aggression, having an arsenal of techniques for dealing with these problems, and choosing the right one for the dog, owner, and environment.
  • Celebrating small victories like they are world championships.

Dan might not ever be my agility champion or competitive obedience rock star that I was looking for when we brought him home – although he loves practicing these activities at home and is quite good.  What he is teaching me is much more valuable than that and will not only benefit the dogs we own in the future but is already benefiting the dogs my clients own.

Happy Birthday Dan! – I can’t wait to see what else you have to teach me in the years to come.

Cat Watching - Dan's self imposed job

Cat Watching – Dan’s self imposed job

Yum!

Dan’s Birthday Bone

 

Training Sessions Part 2: Types of Training Sessions

In my last post “Always Training, All the Time”, we explored the concept that your dog is always learning from you and his environment with every interaction and activity that he partakes in.  The take away from this was that you should always consider what your dog is learning from his day-to-day activities.  Is it what you want him to learn?  If not, how can you change it so that he is learning good habits and behaviors?

This idea is very useful for teaching good manners and how to behave in certain situations.  For certain skills or behaviors though, you will need to set aside time for a more intentional training session.  I have several different types of training sessions that I use with my dogs.  Of course there are an infinite number of ways to incorporate training into your life, but here are some of the ways I do it.

You can think of the different types of training sessions on a scale of formality.  The most casual being “Always Training, All the Time” all the way to very structured, explicit training sessions.

Always Training, All the Time

We have covered Always Training, All the Time in our last post, but this type of training should be ongoing and you will need to think about the behaviors you want to reward and what to reward them with on the fly.  In a way, this is more challenging than a very structured setting because you have to respond to your dogs behavior (or predict it) quickly.

Impromptu Sessions

The next type of session is probably the one I use the most.  I think of these as Impromptu Sessions.  This is when I have a few minutes and my dog is hanging out with me, looking at me like “well, what next?”.  I grab a handful of treats or a toy and do 2-3 minutes of intense training.  Then we play a little and I move on with my day.  To make it easier to be ready for these sessions, I keep stashes of treats all over the house.  We have a jar on the kitchen counter, sometimes I use kibble from the dog food bin (or cat food!), and there are containers in the dining room, my office, and the basement.

For an Impromptu Session, it is easiest to practice behaviors your dog already knows.  We do rapid sit, down, stay, come, heel, sit, etc.  It is a good chance to mix up the order and ask your dog to practice these familiar behaviors in a new setting.  This also keeps those older behaviors fresh while working on new ones.

However, you can also use these sessions to teach a new behavior.  If you do this, it is important to remember where you left off with your training so that you can pick up next time in the same place.  To make this easier, I usually pick one new behavior to work on in Impromptu Training sessions and get it mastered before doing another one.  Right now, Dan is learning to “Turn” which means he should turn away from me when he is sitting at my side.  The last one he learned was “Back up” which has turned into an impressive leap backward – all four paws leaving the floor! Both of these are fairly simple behaviors so they are great for this type of training session.

Again, I do this with the cat too!  He is learning to touch a target with his paw.

Here is a video of an Impromptu Training session with Dan working on “Turn”.  You can see he has it when he is on my left but still is unsure when he is on my right.  There are times where I use a lure or prompt with a hand signal and times when I try it without.  If he isn’t successful, I take a step back so that he can have success and later try the harder version again.  I ended with him on my left so we could end on a good note.

Structured Sessions

The third main type I use are structured training sessions.  For this Structured Sessions, I plan out what I will work on, divide my treats into piles so that I use 10-15 at a time with breaks in between, do the training session, take notes and data, and often video tape.

These sessions are great for any behavior of course, but they are almost necessary for new or complex behaviors.  It is also easier to work on more than one behavior at a time because you give yourself the time to create clear data and take good notes so that you can see how your dog is progressing and remember where you left off.

Usually these sessions take 30-40 minutes for me to complete, but I am actually training my dog for about 15 minutes of that time.  The rest of the time is set up, planning, recording and playtime.  Currently with Dan I am working on calm behaviors on the front porch and front sidewalk in these type of training sessions (instead of lunging, barking, pulling me down the steps!).  We just finished introducing a new type of harness.  He has also learned “go to mat”, “heel”, and “target” in these type of sessions.

“Target” was one of the first behaviors he learned.  I decided to use structured sessions with teaching “target” so that he could learn the routine of our structured sessions.  The other behaviors are pretty complex.  “Heel” and “go to mat” both have many steps and component behaviors that I taught separately then put together.

For example, with “Heel” I first worked on having Dan sit in heel position, then we added the word “heel”, and then I worked on taking single steps while he heeled.  We worked on turns with one step, turning in both directions, walking across a room, stopping often or not, working on leash and off leash.  This would be pretty complicated to keep track of in your head or to just work on without a written plan.  So, Structured Sessions were our best bet.

Now that Dan knows “Heel” well, we incorporate it into our Impromptu Sessions often.

Dan "Go to Mat" at Vet

Dan Practicing “Go to Mat” at the Vet’s Office.

When choosing which behaviors to work on in which session types, you might want to consider the following:

Is the behavior complex?

  • For more complex behaviors, start with Structured Sessions.
  • When he masters it, use it in Impromptu Sessions.
  • If it is a day-to-day behavior, think “Always Training, All the Time”.

Is your dog an experienced learner?

  • If not, begin with Structured Sessions and move towards Impromptu Sessions

Are you good at remembering what you did last?  Do you need to write it down? (Be honest!)

  • If you need to take notes to remember what you worked on, you might want to use Structured Sessions more, or maybe something between Structured Sessions and Impromptu Sessions (video tape or take short notes).
  • For Always Training, All the Time, it might help to keep a journal.  Write a few sentences every day about what you were working on.

How well does your dog know the behavior you are working on?

  • For new behaviors, Structured Sessions might be best, but it depends on you and your dog!

Try each type of session with a few familiar behaviors and a few new ones to see what works for you!

Happy Training!

**Stay tuned for the third post in the Training Sessions series:  Setting up a Session for a discussion about planning and taking data**

Training Sessions Part 1: Always Training, All the Time

Here’s a little secret about dog training – your dog doesn’t know the difference between training and the rest of life.

Okay, he probably understands when you are intentionally training.  You have treats, maybe a clicker, you are directly interacting with him in a certain way, specific to training sessions.

But he doesn’t stop learning when you stop your intentional training session.  Every interaction with your dog teaches him something about the way the world works. 

If he jumps and “just this once” you pet him while he does, he learns from that.
If he barks out of fear and the scary thing goes away, he learns from that.
If he pulls toward something on a walk and succeeds in getting to it, he learns from that.
If he snatches a treat from your hand and gets to inhale it, he learns from that.

So, what can you do about this?  You can be Always Training, All the Time.  Be thoughtful in every interaction with your dog.  Think about what he might learn from each action and result.  Is it something you want him to learn to do?  If not, change the result or prevent the action from happening in the first place.

This is where the management of your dog’s time can really come in handy.  Here are some things you can do to make it easier to be Always Training, All the Time:

Use a crate:

Teach your dog to be happy and comfortable in a crate.  A crate (or x-pen) is an excellent tool for managing your dog.  It allows him to be near you, but prevents him from making mistakes (like getting into the garbage) or from frustrating you when you cannot give him your attention (for example, if you have company over and Fido wants to visit by licking everyone, it can be easy to stray from your usual training techniques).

Note – a crate should never be used for punishment.  It should be a resting place for your dog.  I recommend giving him a special toy or chew when he is in his crate so he can be engaged in something if he wants to.  Also, too much crate time can lead to a restless, hyper puppy!  Use the crate as a tool, but balance it with attention, training time, and exercise.

Get your dog the right amount of exercise:

Speaking of exercise, it is important!  Amount of exercise can contribute to your dog’s behavior just as much as amount of training.  It is important for dogs in the same way it is important for us.  It keeps them healthy, fit, and clear-minded.  For most dogs, a walk or two daily is not enough.  Find a way to let your dog really run whenever possible. Play fetch, go running on trails, let him play with other dogs, go swimming, or get involved in a dog sport like agility.  Every dog is different; figure out what your dog needs and then incorporate it into your daily routine.  Try to find activities that you both enjoy.  For example, I love to go for long walks so I located a park where I can walk while my dogs can run off-leash through the fields, exploring and chasing each other.  Usually I walk about 3 miles and I estimate they run 7 or 8!

Teach your dog to lay on his bed and rest/chew when asked:

When you are watching TV, eating dinner, or doing other quiet family activities ask your dog to lie on a bed or blanket in the same room.  Encourage him to be calm by giving him a toy or bone that involves chewing rather than tug/fetch activities.  This will take a lot of practice, but it pays off in the end!

Dan, chewing his ball on his bed in my office.

Dan, chewing his ball on his bed in my office.

Okay, so now you have some tools for managing your dog when your life is hectic, but how do you incorporate Always Training, All the Time Here are some examples of how we incorporate training into our dog’s daily lives in order to teach them house manners and to strengthen good behaviors:

Use play:

All play at our house involves training.  In fact, the training is the play at our house!  When we are playing tug or fetch with the dogs, we are also asking them to do some of the behaviors they know.  A play session might look like this:

  1. Dog brings toy
  2. We tug, tug, tug, then say “drop it”
  3. Dog drops toy.  “Gooooood dooogggg!” (lots of petting and scratching)
  4. “Dog sit”, dog sits, “goood!!!”, “okay, dog down”, dog downs, “good! Backup!”, dog leaps backward, “what a gooood doggg!!!” (toss toy, dog leaps after it, shakes it around, then eventually comes back)

This teaches your dog several things.  First, that rules are still involved during play.  If I ask for the toy, he needs to give it to me.  If he brings it to me, I need to tug or throw it.  Second, it teaches your dog that training is super fun! Third, it practices impulse control and teaches your dog to have an “on/off switch”.  The play starts and stops all the time but that’s okay, it will start again soon if he is patient!

Create rules based on the room you are in:

Dogs are very dependent on context and will quickly learn whether or not a behavior is acceptable in a certain situation.  At our house, we have general rules based on the environment and our dogs have learned where we play, where we rest, where we cuddle, and where we give a bath (lol!).  Here’s what we do, although you should definitely do what fits for your household:

  1. My Office – No play.  I always give the dogs a treat when they come in and lay on their bed and then they are expected to chill out.  Occasionally they come over for a pet or cuddle but when I say “okay all done” they go back to their bed.
  2. Kitchen – Unfortunately, this is the “play room”.  It can be chaotic.  But what usually happens is one of us is cooking and the other is playing with the dogs while we talk about our day.  It works out well most of the time.
  3. Living room – The dogs are expected to lay down when asked, but we of course play here too sometimes.  I encourage them to play on their own more here, but sometimes we play fetch.  Not much tug, it gets to be too exciting.
  4. Outside – All play goes!  This is the dog’s space to “be a dog”, we discourage barking and digging but otherwise they get to run and play.  (When I say discourage, I mean interrupt the behavior by calling them over to me or bringing them inside – calmly).
  5. Dining Room – When we are eating they are supposed to lay down, but sometimes this isn’t perfect.  Dan loves to herd the cat in this room for some reason.  If they are really good and lay down through a whole meal, they get treats at the end.
  6. Bathroom – This is where we give baths.  The dogs avoid it at all costs, unless no one is home, then Dan helps himself to the garbage!  We usually fix this by simply closing the door.  Easy as pie.

Going on Walks:

Enforce the rules of walking at all times.  This means if the dog pulls, you stop until he focuses on you, then you can continue on your way.  Everyone has different criteria for leash manners.  Decide what yours are and stick to it.  Reward the good all the time and try to prevent rewards for the not-so-good.  Walks should always be happy, fun, upbeat, and focused on the dog.  If you cannot focus on the dog, leave him home and take him for his own walk later.  He will prefer this, I promise.  When a dog is new to walking on a leash, or is learning new rules, your walks may need to be shorter.  Don’t view it as exercise unless your dog is already good at walking on a leash.  Give him another chance to get his exercise in.

These are just examples, some of the most common times that we might not give our dogs the attention they need to learn the right behavior.

Cecil, resting on his blanket in my office

Cecil, resting on his blanket in my office

One more note – these concepts work for all species, not just dogs.  Our cat has learned to sleep in his box on my desk when he is in my office.  And he has learned to cuddle in the living room and meow for food in the kitchen.  He also drives us crazy if he hasn’t had enough attention or activity in a day and loves to do training time, although we don’t do it as often as we should!

Remember, your pet is always learning, and you are always training.  Whether you mean to be or not.

*Stay tuned for the next piece on Training Sessions Part 2 – Types of Training Sessions*

Old in Body, Young in Mind

This is my first time to participate in the Dog Agility Bloggers Event.  The topic today is “aging”.  My blog is young, but I thought this was the perfect chance to get involved as I have been thinking a lot about what is best for my aging dog lately.  Check out the other awesome posts at: http://dogagilityblogevents.wordpress.com/aging/

I am currently enjoying the companionship of my second “senior citizen” agility dog.  My sweet Sam is now 13 ½ and still loving life!  She was my first puppy and unlike my first dog, Libby, she was fast in the agility ring.  We had a wonderful time together in our competition days as I learned how manage her drive and speed, without slowing her down.  This is the dog I learned to do technical agility with – wraps and threadles and serpentines.  And she lives for it.

She still does.  Of course “agility” looks quite a bit different now.  At about 9 or 10, I realized that she needed to work on lower jumps and really could only practice for 15 minutes or so in a day. Now, we don’t even use a bar.  In fact she really never does more than one “jump” exercises and we don’t do any turning.  Just sending through the jump standard or calling her to me from a stay on the other side.  And after 5 minutes, she is exhausted!  But she loves to be included in the training and to practice “agility” and I love to work with her.  There is just something special about working with a dog you have been with for 13 years, a connection you can never have with a younger dog.

In fact, Libby followed the same pattern.  As she got older, I made obstacles easier and took away the complex handling, but I could never deny her a chance to practice agility.  Even when she was deaf, could hardly see, and had trouble standing for long periods of time; we practiced targeting.  Her expression lit up when we would do this.  Here is a video, just a few months before she passed at the age of 17.

As Sam has gotten older, she is slowing down.  She cannot jump well, she has trouble on the stairs, and she is terrified of hard wood floors.  So, we carry her up the stairs when needed, put rugs on the floor, and cuddle on the floor instead of the couch.  But she seems to have no idea that she is changing and I have made it a point to continue doing the activities she has always done; agility, other training, Frisbee, tug of war, walks, chasing her plastic bottles all across the room, and chewing or pouncing on her favorite bones.  All of these activities have changed to accommodate her physical needs.

I believe that this is one of the most important things you can do for an aging dog.  The mental exercise that our dogs get from their jobs is something that they can always enjoy and benefit from, even if we have to change the physical requirements or criteria to keep them safe and healthy.

 

Sam After Digging

Sam with a mouth full of dirt after digging in the countryside this summer.

 

Welcome to my NEW blog!

Hello and Welcome!

The Perkins Animal Behavior website is going through a facelift and has moved.  I am very excited about these changes!  Over the next week or two I will be copying my blog posts from the former location to this new one.  You may have already seen these posts, but it can’t hurt to read them again.  After all, it is always good practice to “go back to kindergarten” when training.  New posts will start appearing shortly after the old ones are all here.

Check back in a few hours for the first transplant blog post – “A Shaping Project – Ring It”

Happy Training!

Laura

 

Leave It!

Leave it is one of those behaviors that is priceless to teach your dog.  Leave the grass, leave the other dog, leave the other dog’s toy, leave the chicken on the counter, leave the child alone…it goes on and on!

Over the past week or so I’ve seen some great pictures on the internet demonstrating this behavior.

First I saw this one.

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Then these two followed.  (Credit to Becky Herring, her dog Hunter, and her friend Michele and her three dogs)

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Tonight while Dan was working for his dinner, I decided to give it a shot.  Here’s the video of him doing it on the first try!  I even had to get up to get more kibble and he stayed put, waiting ever so patiently.

Try the “leave it” challenge with your dog!  Send your pics to perkinsanimalbehavior@gmail.com and I will feature them in a future blog post!

Sammy arrives – and surprises me!

Sammy has been living with my parents in Illinois while Justin and I got married and I moved from Texas to Portland.  She had lots of fun on her farm vacation, digging everywhere and hunting mice.  My parents made the drive with her from Illinois last week and our household is now complete, two dogs, two cats, two people.

I’ve been spending every spare second working to restore balance in our household, helping the dogs to get to know each other and trying to convince the cats that a second dog isn’t so bad!

Dan has been a spoiled only child since we got him and he wasn’t sure what to think of this bossy older dog in his apartment!  We were very careful for the first few days while introducing them.  We walked them separately. We had several crates around the dining room to give Sam a break from the enthusiastic puppy or to let Dan settle down and give Sammy some one-on-one attention. If they were out together, we were watching closely, making sure all of the body language was friendly and interrupting any interactions that looked unfriendly.

The second or third day, we took the two of them to the big dog park together.  They had only spent a small amount of time in the same room together and I thought this might help them figure each other out.  I think that this experience was very important for them.  It gave them wide-open spaces to get to know each other on somewhat neutral ground.  This environment was much more natural to both of them too, being herding breed dogs (actually it is more natural for almost any dog – apartments are a stressful environment for dogs!) They ran together and sniffed each other on their own terms with plenty of opportunities to take a break and go hunt, dig, or come to the humans for attention.  By the end of the 4-mile walk, Dan was racing after Sammy wherever she went, but was being very respectful, giving her space and not plowing her over.

It has been really interesting to watch the two of them interact and get to know one another! One particular interaction has stood out for me and I wanted to share it with you.

In general, they are starting to entertain each other, rather than constantly seeking my attention while I’m working.  They follow each other waiting for the toy the other one has and take turns stealing each other’s bones. And Dan is constantly putting on a show for Sammy, trying to get her to play.  And this has been the best moment of all for me – he got her to engage in direct play!  I happened to be nearby, and decided to take a quick video of him showing off for her.  He’s so funny, he flips his whole body around, play bowing over and over asking to play.  I was lucky enough that this was the time he was successful and got some footage of Sammy bowing back.

This shouldn’t be an unusual interaction for most dogs, but Sammy has never been interested in playing with other dogs at all, unless it is the game of fetch or she is herding them like sheep.  She averts her gaze at the park making it clear that she would prefer the other dogs to just ignore her and play with someone else.  I’m not sure exactly why she is this way, I was pretty young when she was a puppy, but we lived in the country and she was rarely in a place where she could interact with other dogs.  We have been to many obedience and agility classes and trials, but that isn’t the same as free play with another dog.

The way this behavior was elicited is just so interesting to me and brings up so many questions that I hope to find answers to.  For example, what is it about Dan that got her to play?  Did she learn from him or did he do something to elicit a behavior she already knew but was really, really rusty on?  Will this change the way she interacts with other dogs?

It is amazing what your dogs can teach you in the most unexpected ways.  I’m glad they like each other so much and I’m so excited to keep watching their relationship build.

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Sam and Dan on a trip to the Sandy River dog park – it was a little muddy! And everything was more interesting than looking at the camera.

Sheepdog Trials – a “quick” trip to Klamath Falls

This week I made a last minute decision to check out the USBCHA National Finals in Klamath Falls, Oregon.  I was already so excited to go when I learned that Klamath Falls is 6 hours away!  I almost didn’t go, but decided to make the trek through the woods and mountains of Oregon, which I learned can be a little scary by yourself in the dark with no cell service and the threat that the road I was on would close for the night only 20 minutes after I left it.  I made it though and got to see Wednesday morning’s runs.

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The woods of southern Oregon at sunset
PictureFirst run of the morning promptly at 8 am. Dog people are early risers!

The top 150 handlers from around the country were competing and just to emphasize how difficult the runs can be, only about half of them finished in time with a score.  Some ran out of time, some withdrew early due to a bad first part of the run.  Many of these handlers have been doing this for a lifetime and have several dogs at the competition level at any given time.  Although I am still just learning about all of the components of sheepdog trials, I’d like to share a little bit about the structure and rules so that you can all get hooked on the sport too!

In this particular organization, only border collies are worked, but any herding breed can find a place to practice and compete in herding (the rules and techniques may differ from breed to breed).  I watched the open runs, which is for dogs who are 3 and older.  During these runs, the handler and dog start at a post about 600-800 yards from the sheep.  The handler sends the dog to the sheep (the outrun) and the dog must curve way around so that the sheep are not disturbed by the dog.  The dog then begins to move the sheep (the lift) directly to the handler through the first set of gates (the fetch).  The dog must direct the sheep around the handler, through two more gates (the drive), and into the shedding circle.  Until this point, the handler must stay at the post and direct the dog with either a whistle or voice commands.  The dog then must split the four sheep into two clear groups without too much help from the handler, although the handler is allowed to move into the shedding circle.  Once the judge approves the split, the handler moves to the pen, the dog directs the sheep into the pen, and the handler closes the gate.  The handler is not allowed to drop the rope on the gate while the dog is penning the sheep.  The team has 15 minutes to complete these tasks.

Some of the common herding commands that the handler uses to direct the dog are:

  • Away/away to me: circle counterclockwise around sheep
  • Come by: circle clockwise around sheep
  • Lay down:  really means stop/slow down/crouch, rarely does the dog actually lay down all the way
  • Walk on: move directly towards the sheep
  • Steady/easy: slow down
  • That’ll do: stop what you’re doing and come to the handler/work is done

Those are the basics, but there are many subtleties and nuances to herding that you and your dog learn as you go.  The handler must know her dog very well and be able to notice the smallest difference in the way the dog is working.  The handler must also be good at understanding the sheep, analyzing how they work and predicting what they will do as a result of what the dog does.  It is all a very delicate balance and beautiful to watch.  There is just nothing like watching a dog work sheep, switching between broad large movements from a distance and tight control close in to the flock.

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Outrun – the sheep are way off to the left of the shot, but the dog must curve out and around to avoid startling the sheep.
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Part of the drive – sending them right through the gates.
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Penning the sheep. The handler can move around but can’t let go of the rope. The dog and handler work together to funnel the sheep into the pen and close the gate to end the run.

This weekend they will be broadcasting the semi-finals and finals live at: http://sheepdogfinals.org/wordpress1/live-webcast/

I urge you to take even just a few minutes to check it out, especially if you’ve never seen herding before.  It’s really amazing to watch!  Also, there is more information about sheepdog trialing on the USBCHA website at:http://www.usbcha.com/index.html and at the ABCA website at: http://www.americanbordercollie.org/.

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Beautiful Oregon. A snowy mountain behind Odell Lake on the trip home.